The Problem: Why Your Factory Setup Understeers

The factory tends to set cars up to benefit the "average driver." As someone looking for more handling prowess, you immediately do not qualify for that group. The factory tunes your chassis to prevent oversteer to such an extent that it results in understeer in more circumstances than you’d expect.

What is understeer?
It’s that feeling where you hit a corner and the car seems to not want to turn until you let off the gas a bit—then it suddenly changes its mind. Been there? We all have. And every time it happens, you think, "Couldn't the car just hook around the corner properly at a moderate speed?" Yes, it absolutely can. You just need to configure it to match your needs, not the needs of the average consumer.

Component #1: The Adjustable Rear Sway Bar

One major reason for factory understeer is the setup of the factory sway bars. While both are usually undersized, the rear is biased to be more undersized than the front.

Whiteline Rear Sway Bar on a Subaru Outback.

While you could spend more and upgrade both, you'd often have to "detune" the front to get the right relationship between the two. Therein lies the first piece of the puzzle: Upgrading the rear sway bar without messing with the front bar at all.

The Technical Details:

We recommend the Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar. Depending on your model, this will be a two-way or three-way adjustable bar.

• The Adjustment: This is determined by where you attach the sway bar endlink to the bar.
• The Outer Hole: Closest to the end of the bar; the least aggressive setting.
• The Inner Hole: Closest to the pivot point; the most aggressive setting.
• Solid vs. Hollow: Most factory bars are hollow. These upgraded bars are solid, providing significantly more rigidity and immediate response.

Kartboy End Links with Whiteline Rear Sway Bar

Pro Tip: We like to start on the "Medium" or "Hard" settings right out of the gate and adjust from there to feel the immediate difference in turn-in.

What the Transformation Feels Like

With this upgrade, your car will want to hook around corners much better than it ever did before. But don't just take our word for it—here is what our customers are saying:

"This sway bar combined with the Kartboy end links radically improved my Outback! The install was super easy and took about 30 minutes. I started out on the medium setting and it gave a good noticeable improvement, but then I changed to the Hard setting and it’s even better! No more understeer and the car feels so much more confident and stable in the turns. I highly recommend this combo! IMO it’s a must-have upgrade! Now, I can’t wait to add the Nameless front strut tower brace next!"

Component #2: The Front Strut Tower Brace

Getting the car to follow the optimal line is one thing; improving the steering feedback and consistency takes effort in another department.

Imagine that "Left 3 Over Crest" turn. There are imperfections in the road—maybe a pothole, a seam, or some washboard ruts. You're mid-corner, the tire hits a variation in the road surface, and the steering wheel pulls on your grip. You find yourself unsure of how the wheel will behave.

Nameless Performance Front Strut Tower Brace on a 2.4L Turbocharged Subaru

Boxing the Suspension

Our Front Strut Tower Brace locks the tops of your front struts together, effectively "boxing" the suspension. This results in:

1. Less Chassis Flex: Prevents the towers from moving independently under load.
2. Predictable Geometry: Because your steering linkage runs directly through the strut to the knuckle/tire combo, reducing flex keeps your alignment true mid-corner.
3. Improved Feedback: You feel exactly what the tires are doing without the "muddy" feeling of a flexing chassis.

Performance Summary: At a Glance

The Verdict: The Ultimate Insurance Package

While the Front Strut Tower Brace is a great improvement on its own, it is truly the best "insurance package" to go along with the aggressive turn-in provided by the adjustable rear sway bar. Together, this package provides amazing results, transforming your Subaru from a "standard consumer" ride into a precision handling machine.

"I’ve been running the Nameless front strut brace and 20mm Whiteline rear sway bar for over a year now and 40k with nothing but smiles to report. The point and shoot characteristics that this setup provides is just best described as spectacular."

Ready to transform your Subaru?

• Shop Whiteline Sway Bars & Suspension Upgrades
• Shop Kartboy End Links
• Shop Nameless Front Strut Tower Braces

The Autostop Eliminator is the gold standard for fixing this, but how does it work, is it hard to install, and do you ? In this guide, we'll break down the benefits, the install, and the reality of the cheaper alternatives.

Why Subaru Owners Love the Autostop Eliminator

While Subaru engineers built the system to meet EPA emissions standards, real-world driving reveals four major pain points:

1. Battery & Starter Longevity: Subaru uses AGM batteries, but constant cycling in heavy traffic still accelerates wear. Replacing a Subaru battery can cost $300+, easily erasing any fuel savings.
   
   
2. Climate Control Interruption: When the engine stops, the A/C compressor stops. In peak summer, your cabin temperature can rise 5-10 degrees during a single long red light.
   
   
3. The "Boxer Shudder": The horizontal layout of the Subaru Boxer engine makes the restart more noticeable than an inline-4. It can feel like the car is stumbling just as you need to pull into traffic.
   
   
4. The Button Push: Hunting for and pushing "the button" drives everyone nuts, especially when it's in the touch screen. But worse is forgetting to press it at realizing the first time you come to a stop.

Autostop Eliminator vs. Low-Cost "Amazon Hacks"

You've likely seen the $25-$40 bypass cables on Amazon or eBay. Unlike cheap bypasses that trick your car's sensors or "hack" into the Engine Control Unit (ECU), the Autostop Eliminator is a passive, logic-based device. It doesn't change your vehicle's software or override safety parameters.

Instead, it simply remembers your last preference. If you turned the feature off during your last drive, the device sends a momentary signal to the car—identical to you pressing the physical button—immediately after you start the engine. Your Subaru remains exactly as the engineers intended; the device just handles the 'button pushing' for you so you don't have to remember it every single time.

The Verdict: The cheap cables "trick" the car into thinking the hood is open or a button is stuck. The Autostop Eliminator is "smarter," it electronically mimics a manual button press, keeping the car's diagnostic systems happy.

Installation Guide: Step-by-Step

Depending on your specific Subaru model and year, the installation usually happens in one of two places: the Overhead Console or Under the Seat.

Option A: Overhead Console (Most 2020+ Outback/Legacy/Forester)

Step 1: Open the sunglasses holder and remove the two 8mm bolts (or Phillips screws) inside.

Step 2: Gently pull down the overhead console/EyeSight cover. It is held in by plastic clips.

Step 3: Locate the wiring harness connected to the back of the stereo camera (EyeSight).

Step 4: Unplug the factory harness and plug the Autostop Eliminator in-line (it acts as a bridge).

Step 5: Tuck the device into the empty space, secure it with the provided zip-tie, snap the console back into place, and reinstall the two screws.

Option B: Under-Seat (Forester/Crosstrek with RAB)

If your vehicle has Reverse Automatic Braking (RAB), the device (Model AE022) often plugs into a module located under the driver's seat.

Step 1: Slide the driver's seat all the way forward.

Step 2: Locate the black module under the seat.

Step 3: Unplug the factory connector and insert the Eliminator.

Step 4: Secure the wire with the provided zip-tie to ensure it doesn't snag when the seat moves.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Does this void my Subaru warranty?
A: No. Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, a manufacturer cannot deny a warranty claim because of an aftermarket part unless they can prove that specific part caused the failure. Since the device is a passive bridge, it's safe.

Q: Will my Remote Start still work?
A: Yes. The Autostop Eliminator is designed to be compatible with factory and most aftermarket remote start systems.

Q: Will it affect my EyeSight safety features?
A: No. While it plugs into the EyeSight harness in some models, it only uses the power and ground wires. It does not touch the camera's data or decision-making systems.

Q: What if I see an EyeSight error message immediately after installation?
A: Don't panic; this is almost always a seating issue. If the harness isn't clicked in 100% of the way, the EyeSight cameras lose communication. Simply unplug the device, ensure there are no bent pins, and firmly re-seat the connectors until you hear a distinct "click."

Q: Can I turn the Auto Start-Stop back ON?
A: Absolutely. The device simply "remembers" your last setting. If you want the system on, press the button. It will stay on until you manually turn it off again.

Q: Will the Autostop Eliminator work on Non-US model Subaru vehicles?
A: The Autostop Eliminator was made for US market vehicles and has not been tested or verified to work on non-US models, except for a few in Australia. Because of this, the Autostop Eliminator cannot be guaranteed to fit or be covered under warrantt for non-US models.

Q: Which Subaru Vehicles Does the Autostop Eliminator Work With?
A: The Autostop Eliminator is available for the following Vehicles:

• 2026 Subaru Outback
• 2023-2025 Subaru Outback
• 2020-2025 Subaru Outback
• 2026 Subaru Forester
• 2025 Subaru Forester
• 2022-2024 Subaru Forester
• 2019-2021 Subaru Forester
• 2024-2026 Subaru Crosstrek
• 2020-2023 Subaru Crosstrek
• 2024-2026 Subaru Impreza
• 2023-2025 Subaru Legacy
• 2020-2022 Subaru Legacy

304, 321, 409, 201, we tend to rattle on about material grades when we talk about our product vs. other products on the market. But rarely do we dive in and discuss the details of what each of these materials are, why their use in exhaust design is important and why it's important to be able to trust that the company you spend your money with is doing what they say they are.

WHY STAINLESS?

Most people consider stainless steel to be an excellent use case for exhaust system development because of the apparent corrosion resistance effects, as well as the overall great look of the product. Whether it's standard mill finish, a #4 brushed finish like we use, or a full polish like you'll find in many overseas manufactured exhausts where low-cost manual labor is readily accessible, stainless does look excellent and carries high longevity under vehicles in most areas. In some areas, it's prone to corrosion due to the caustic reagents applied to roads (these days it seems to be a variety of salts, from sodium to magnesium chloride and a variety of acetates. All in all, fairly bad stuff that can quickly degrade metals, especially so for lesser grades of steel. So, if you live in an area like that, it's all the more reason to go after a quality material and even then, consider cleaning the undercarriage regularly.

WHAT IS STAINLESS STEEL, AND HOW DO DIFFERENT GRADES RANK?

Stainless Alloy Basics: Stainless steels are an alloy of Iron (Fe) that have specific alloying agents included in their makeup. Remember the periodic table? These are items like Carbon (C) and Manganese (Mn) for improving the hardness and other physical properties of the material, heavy metals like Nickel (N), Chromium (Cr), and Silicon (Si) to promote corrosion resistance, as well as Sulfur (S) and Phosphorus (P) to improve machinability. Depending on the grade of stainless steel, these alloying agents have different quantities, which in turn impacts the material cost. They also result in vastly different behaviors in the material - from resistance to thermal expansion over temperature change (that's what makes headers crack), to resistance to corrosives. So, let's take a look at the different grades, where they're good, and where they're lacking:

304 Stainless Steel: While this isn't the most common grade for exhaust manufacturing, it's certainly up near the top of the list for best bang for the buck. T304 Stainless Steel does seem to be the most readily quoted grade of stainless referred to when a brand wants to hang its hat on quality. Here's the thing to remember, though, and the thing to ask: is the system all that grade of stainless? What about the perforated tubing inside the mufflers? What about the flanges (often times companies will run mild steel or lesser grade stainless flanges and then lightly plate them to match the look of the polished tubing on the exhaust). We have had a lot of Brand X exhaust systems pass through our shop and end up in the scrap bin after a customer rolls in for a fresh exhaust system, and we have seen it all.

409 Stainless Steel: A vast majority of factory and aftermarket stainless systems on the market are 400 series stainless, with 409 being the most common. Lacking in the Nickel and Chromium department vs. T304 stainless, 409 is less corrosion resistant than 304 both for the lack of those alloying agents as well as for lacking the structural effect they have.

See, in 304 stainless, the nickel and chromium levels not only improve the material itself, but they also change the structure / lattice of the material and allow the molecular structure of that material to evenly distribute the chromium and nickel throughout the material. As nickel levels drop, the chromium is less evenly dispersed in the lattice, resulting in more potential for corrosion and stress cracking. Even then, 409 series stainless isn't terrible; it's what many factory exhaust systems are made from and it isn't the thing you have to really worry about when purchasing an exhaust, at least you'll know what you're getting.

And how do you know? Well, pretty easy, while 304 stainless will have little to no evidence of magnetism, 409 does. A good neodymium magnet will stick to 409 while it'll barely attract toward a straight length of 304 (bends are another story, we can discuss the science behind that later). The shortcomings of 409 are simple: It tends to rust on the surface over time even if it's not exposed to corrosive agents. The good news is that it's usually just cosmetic - and doesn't have high of a potential to fail or rot out as mild steel or other suboptimal grades of stainless will.

Lets talk about one of them:

200 Series Stainless: Yeah... if 304 is the good, 409 is the bad, 200 series stainless is most certainly the UGLY. It's the material nobody ever told you to watch out for, because a lot of companies and even some material manufacturers don't even know it's floating around in circulation.

So what is it? Well, it's fake 300 series stainless. It's literally a grade of stainless steel that was engineered to behave like 304, in that it is non-magnetic. But it bends differently, it corrodes quickly and without abandon, and it has very little material strength in comparison to the material it is mean to mimic. So how is it done? On the sly, that's how. The mill substitutes the expensive and corrosion resistant Nickel alloy for Manganese. The result is a more brittle product that lacks the uniformity of distribution of the corrosion inhibitors like Chromium. Put it out in the elements and it's not long before it begins to rust, and it doesn't stop.

And this is where shopping with a manufacturer that is known for its quality is a critical component in making the decision on who you should spend your money with.

Nameless Performance lot tests every single batch of material and discrete components that come in the door for every stainless product we make. Using a state-of-the-art XRF analyzer we get a full breakdown of material properties for each shipment to ensure that the certificates that are sent with the materials match the material we have received. This is certainly not the industry standard in our world of aftermarket automotive, but the potential for material fraud is high enough to demand that any manufacturer who is worth their salt (pun intended) be equipped to provide the level of quality assurance to their customers that we do for you.

Lets get back to the good...

So, let's get past the shitty details of material science and talk about the really cool stuff. Like 321 Stainless and Docol R8, materials that perform flawlessly at specific tasks where spending a little extra money can go a long way in assuring that you only have to spend the money once.

321 Stainless Steel: If you're buying a header or turbo exhaust manifold, this is absolutely what you're looking for - cost is significantly higher than 304 stainless, but when temperatures get astronomically high, 321 features some extra alloying agents like Titanium to keep the coefficient of thermal expansion to a minimum. What's that? Well, that's when something gets hot and wants to expand. Weld 28 of those somethings together and you'll either need cross-sectional area (heavy tubing) or flawlessly engineered parts to keep the components from trying to tear each other's arms off while you're doing pulls or banging off rev limiter at your local drift track.

Docol R8: While not a technically stainless steel, Docol R8 deserves a shoutout in the world of high-performance tubing. This Swedish-made, advanced high-strength steel (AHSS) is prized for its exceptional tensile strength, lightweight properties, and superior weldability. While it doesn't have the corrosion resistance of 304 or 321 stainless, Docol R8 is occasionally used in motorsport exhaust systems where strength-to-weight ratio is critical, and vehicles are maintained regularly. Typically, it sees more action in roll cages, suspension components, and structural applications. If you're chasing every ounce of weight savings and maximum rigidity and you're willing to protect against corrosion, Docol R8 delivers.

Final Thoughts:

At Nameless Performance, every single exhaust system we build is crafted from true 304 stainless steel. No compromises and no shortcuts here. If you're shopping for an aftermarket exhaust and the manufacturer doesn't specifically state it's made from 304, you can bet it's almost certainly a lower-grade 200 or 400 series stainless designed to save them money; not to deliver long-term performance for you. Don't fall for polished looks hiding subpar materials.

That said, even the best stainless steels aren't invincible. Road salts, deicers, and other corrosive agents will eventually attack any material, 304 included. So, if you live in an area where winter road treatments are common, it's critical to wash your undercarriage regularly to maximize the lifespan of your exhaust and consider a quality metal polish to keep the shine on your tips. Choose wisely, maintain it right, and your system will last as long as your love for the drive.

If you've owned your Subaru for a while, you may have noticed that familiar clack-clack-clack on cold starts, that brief moment before oil pressure builds and everything quiets down. That's not just "Subaru being Subaru." Subaru FA and FB series engines have inverted oil filters mounted on the top of the engine and suffer from a prolonged dry start due to oil draining from the feed and output side of the oil filter following engine shutdown.

The inverted oil filter maintains a pocket of air compressed at the end of the filter when the engine is running. Following engine shutdown, the air in the filter returns to atmospheric pressure and forces oil out of the filter.
The Baxter Performance Anti-Drain Adapter fixes that problem for good.

What the Baxter Performance Anti-Drain Adapter Does

Baxter's patented anti-drain oil filter adapter contains an out-flow check valve that prevents air from migrating into the oil feed galley from the filter. The adapter installs between your block and the oil filter on Subaru FA and FB engines. Its internal check valve prevents oil from draining back into the pan after shutdown, keeping the filter and upper oil passages full.

That means instant oil pressure on startup and far less wear from those "dry starts" that happen every morning or after the car sits for a few days or even just a few hours.

Why the Factory Anti-Drain Back Valve Isn’t Enough

Don't Subaru oil filters already have an anti-drain back valve? Why do I need this?
Yes, Subaru oil filters include a rubber anti-drainback valve, but on FA and FB engines with a top-mount (inverted) oil filter, that valve alone isn’t enough.

Inside the front engine cover, the oil feed galley from the pump and the oil supply galley from the filter are separated by a metal plate with no gasket sealing the two passages. After the engine is shut off, this allows air to migrate between the galleys, which lets oil drain back through the pump. When this happens, the oil filter’s internal anti-drainback valve is effectively bypassed, even though it is functioning as designed.

Subaru FA/FB Oil Galleys

The Baxter Anti-Drain Adapter addresses this design limitation by working in conjunction with the oil filter’s internal valves. The filter’s anti-drainback valve prevents oil from draining back down the feed side, while the Baxter adapter’s outflow check valve prevents the supply side from draining. With both sides remaining full of oil, air can no longer migrate between the galleys, keeping the oil system flooded between starts.

Installation: Do You Need to Wait Until Your Next Oil Change?

Nope. One positive of Subaru's top-mounted filter design, you can install the Baxter adapter anytime without dumping your oil. Just remove the filter, add the adapter, reinstall the filter, and you're done. It's a 10-minute mod that pays off every time you turn the key.

Will an Anti-Drain Adapter Affect My Subaru Warranty?

No, however, the dealer may choose not to service an oil/filter change due to the adapter having a Schrader valve and deviating from servicing protocol. Here's more info from Baxter Performance about how their adapters do not void your factory warranty: Baxter Performance Factory Warranty Info

Should You Pre-Fill the Oil Filter? How to Prime Your Subaru Oil System

Not if you prime the oil system correctly. Most owners don't realize 2005 and newer Subarus with drive-by wire throttle bodies have a built-in way to do this called "clear flood mode." This allows you to crank your engine over while disabling both the ignition and fuel systems.

How to Do the Clear Flood Procedure on Your Subaru

For Subaru models with a push-button start:

• Make sure the vehicle is in park or neutral and the parking brake is engaged.
• Press the brake pedal all the way down.
• Press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
• Press the start button to begin the cranking process.
• The engine will crank for about 5-6 seconds because the fuel and ignition systems are disabled and then stop on its own or press the button again to stop it.
• Release the accelerator pedal.
• Press the start button again to start the engine normally. 

For Subaru models with a keyed ignition

• Ensure the car is in neutral or park and the parking brake is set.
• Press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
• While holding the pedal down, turn the key to the "start" or "on" position and let the engine crank for about 3-4 seconds or until you see the low oil pressure light on the dash go out.
• Release the gas pedal and turn the key to the "off" position, then turn it back to the "start" position to start the engine normally.

Your oil system is now primed! Start it normally and you'll avoid that first-start oil starvation.

What If I Don’t Have an Air Compressor to Clear the Filter?

No worries. Anything that can attach to a Schrader valve will work — a portable tire inflator or even a bicycle pump. Aim for at least 30 PSI (up to 100 PSI) to push out the residual oil when performing a change.

Why This Upgrade Is Essential for Subaru FA & FB Engine Longevity

Subaru's FA and FB engines are known for their reliability, but oil starvation on startup is a long-term wear contributor that most owners overlook. The Baxter Anti-Drain Adapter is one of those rare upgrades that's cheap insurance:

• Extends engine life
• Reduces startup noise
• Improves cold-start lubrication
• Takes minutes to install

So what did we do? Listen and improve!

Getting an exhaust note to match our customers interests has always been part of our business model. We are one of the only companies who invests time in making a variety of sound levels of our exhausts systems for all vehicles so that we can get you the sound that you want. Generally speaking that has been a variety of muffling levels, from the muffler delete to a large muffler.

With the uptick in popularity of CVT gearboxes in a number of newer Subaru vehicles, with many like the Forester, Outback and Legacy exclusively featuring the CVT, getting a good sounding exhaust out the back of the vehicle with no drone characteristic inside the car is a challenge. Whether it's driving in an area where you end up at a low rpm and moderate load (or intelligent mode without use of the flappy paddles in these cars) there is some range of the RPM where the cabin noise is more significant than many of our customers want. We want to be able to hit the target for all segments of our market and we had some solid feedback from some of our customers that the exhaust we built for the Forester was too loud during daily driving, specifically hill climbing under load.

We tested a lot of options to try to reduce that cabin noise. We changed muffler packing and tested four different muffler packing substrates finding that all of our alternate packing materials including some that our competitors use like stainless wool didn't hold a candle to the signature sound we achieve with our medium density ceramic packing material in our hand built mufflers.

We increased the muffler volume (overall size) by almost 150% and then 200%, both by changing length and overall diameter.

We also changed the tip diameter to verify it wasn't a factor in biasing frequency. And while each of these things made improvements, they weren't significant enough for us to hang our hat on and release as a differentiated product from our standard 5" muffler. Back to the drawing board.

Identifying The Target

So we found a hill, Green Mountain Road to be exact, that has almost a thousand feet of elevation gain over a few miles. It basically goes straight up for a long long time. It became our spot to frequency analyze a vast number of exhaust options we bolted up to our Forester Sport. As we tested up this hill, we found that at load while climbing a hill, in Intelligent mode, the CVT would just camp out at 1800-2000 RPM, and you could give a significant increase in throttle with the only result being a change in sound with little to no change in RPM. This became our RPM to target.

The larger we went on muffler size, the more we found ourselves losing the best notes in the signature sound of the exhaust along with the frequencies we wanted to diminish, and even then it took a LOT of muffler to achieve that goal. So we turned to science to design a Helmholtz resonator to cancel our 1800-2000rpm frequency range without effecting any of the great sounds that we liked about the exhaust system at full throttle and in the upper range of the powerband.

Helmholtz resonators are something that we are very familiar with, having used them in a variety of exhaust systems over the years, from our quad exit Hyundai Genesis exhaust to our BRZ downpipe. And we have had good success with them. But lets back up a bit, what is a helmholtz resonator? It's pretty simple actually - you know when you blow in a coke bottle and it makes a sound? That's a hemholtz resonator. The compression of the air inside the bottle results in a tone being generated. As the size of the bottle or amount of liquid in it changes, the tone that is generated changes as well. Helmholtz resonators are no different - they utilize a fixed diameter and length tube into a closed chamber of a given volume to geneate a frequency.

So how do we use this for exhaust resonance tuning? In a very clever way, that's how - we take a frequency analyzer along with us while driving in areas where the exhaust gets a little boomier than we prefer, and we measure that frequency at a given RPM, which shows us exactly what frequency we have to target. As we can see from this frequency analysis, our offending intelligent-mode 1800 RPM frequency is right around 122hz (the tall peak is on the graph to the right). Cancelling that will make a significant impact on the low rpm drone in the vehicle, and our helmholtz resonator can do that by generating an inverse frequency to the one we are trying to cancel.

Designing a Solution

With that target frequency, we can calculate the design of our helmholtz resonator. In order to hit our target with an amplitude high enough to get a good effect, we start with a large closed chamber (our stainless steel coke bottle in this case), and then use our target frequency to calculate the length tube that connects the resonator with the exhaust system. Factor in the average exhaust gas temperature on one of these vehicles as it effects the speed of sound in our equation, and we are ready to start cutting metal and building a prototype.

The dimensions we come up with generate a frequency which cancels the ~120hz frequency we were targeting. The result is an exhaust that sounds great out the back of the vehicle, while avoiding drone at cruise under load no matter which mode you choose in the SI-drive system. Our new helmholtz resonated exhaust for the 2019+ Forester Sport is available now, and we plan to roll out this technology in more models that feature the FB25 direct injected engine. This new system retains 90% of the tone of our standard muffled exhaust system while cancelling the dominant resonant frequency of the exhaust that happens around 1800-2000rpm at cruise under load. We have test customers in the field running these designs for the 2019+ Forester Sport and 2014-2018 Forester 2.5i, and they have all had rave reviews.

Looking for a no drone exhaust for your Subaru? View dual chamber exhausts for:

• Impreza:
• 2024+
• 2017-2023 Wagon
• 2012-2016 Wagon
• Crosstrek:
• 2024+
• 2018-2023
• 2013-2017 XV
• Forester:
• 2025+
• 2019-2024
• Legacy:
• 2020+
• 2018-2019
• 2015-2017
• Outback:
• 2020+
• 2015-2019

View All of Nameless Performance Subaru No Drone Exhaust Systems

Rock Solid Mounting Qualified For Off Road Use.

As you may have noticed, we have also upgraded our already industry-superior gusseted hanger assembly on our Forester Sport exhuast. With a higher number of our customers spending more time off road and putting these vehicles through their paces at a variety of angles, we have come up with an upgraded design for hanging these exhaust systems on the Forester, a vehicle which has a lot of moment-arm in the exhaust assembly which results in more movement of the exhaust. Our new design uses a twin bar design at each hanger location, and includes a pair of three hole urethane exhaust hanger bushings to isolate rotation and lateral movement of the system at both of the mounting points. The result is a rock solid assembly which prevents side to side motion. We have already brought this upgrade to the heavier helmholtz design as well as the rest of our Forester Sport exhaust systems. We now include a pair of the three hole bushings with each of these exhaust systems in all configurations of the exhaust.

Now available for all generations of the Subaru Crosstrek!